What to Look for at Showings

Open houses and private showings are your chance to assess a property beyond the listing photos. Professional staging, fresh paint, and good photography can make almost any home look appealing online, but in person you need to look deeper. A few minutes of careful observation during a showing can save you tens of thousands of dollars in surprise repairs after closing.

Think of your showing visits as the first round of due diligence. You are not a home inspector — and you should always hire one before buying — but developing your own eye for potential problems helps you decide which properties are worth pursuing and which are best avoided.

Beyond the Cosmetics

Foundation

The foundation is the most critical structural element of any home. Walk around the outside of the house and look carefully at the foundation walls. Here is what to watch for:

Hairline cracks — Small, thin cracks are common and usually cosmetic, especially in poured concrete foundations. They are typically caused by normal settling and shrinkage.
Horizontal cracks — These are far more serious. Horizontal cracks in a poured concrete or block foundation can indicate lateral soil pressure pushing the wall inward. Repair costs can range from $5,000 to $30,000+ depending on severity.
Stair-step cracks in brick or block — These follow the mortar joints in a stair-step pattern and can indicate differential settling, where one part of the foundation is sinking more than another.
Cracks wider than 6mm (quarter-inch) — Any crack this wide or larger warrants professional assessment. These can indicate active structural movement.

Inside the home, check the basement walls for signs of water intrusion: efflorescence (white mineral deposits), staining at the base of walls, or active dampness. Also look at the basement floor for cracks or signs of patching.

Roof

The roof is one of the most expensive components to replace, so its condition significantly affects your total cost of ownership.

Ask the age — Asphalt shingle roofs typically last 20 to 25 years in Canadian climates. Metal roofs can last 40 to 60 years. If the roof is near end of life, budget $8,000 to $15,000+ for a standard residential replacement, or $15,000 to $25,000 for a larger or more complex roof.
Look for visible signs — Missing or curling shingles, sagging sections, moss or algae growth, and damaged flashing around chimneys or vents are all warning signs.
Check the attic — If accessible, look at the underside of the roof deck for water stains, daylight showing through, or signs of inadequate ventilation.
Gutters and downspouts — Are they intact and directing water away from the foundation? Missing or damaged gutters can cause water to pool around the base of the house.

Electrical Panel

The electrical system is another major-cost item and a safety concern. Ask to see the electrical panel (usually located in the basement, utility room, or garage).

Modern 200-amp breaker panel — This is the current standard for Canadian homes. It provides ample capacity for modern electrical needs including air conditioning, electric vehicle chargers, and home offices.
100-amp breaker panel — Adequate for many homes, but may need upgrading if you plan to add major electrical loads.
60-amp fuse box — Common in homes built before 1960. This is often insufficient for modern living and may need upgrading. Cost: $3,000 to $5,000 for a basic panel upgrade.
Knob-and-tube wiring — Found in homes built before 1950. This wiring is not inherently dangerous if undisturbed, but many insurance companies will not insure homes with active knob-and-tube, and upgrading the entire house can cost $8,000 to $15,000+.
Federal Pacific or Zinsco panels — These brands are known safety hazards. Breakers in these panels can fail to trip during overloads, creating a fire risk. Replacement is strongly recommended.
Aluminum wiring — Common in homes built in the late 1960s and 1970s. Aluminum wiring requires special connectors and can be a fire risk at connection points. Remediation (pigtailing with copper) typically costs $3,000 to $5,000 for a whole house.

Plumbing

Turn on faucets and flush toilets during your showing. Pay attention to:

Water pressure — Low pressure could indicate corroded pipes, a failing well pump, or municipal supply issues.
Drain speed — Slow drains throughout the house can indicate a main sewer line problem, which is expensive to repair ($5,000-$15,000 for a sewer line replacement).
Pipe material — Ask the seller or listing agent about the piping. Copper and PEX (cross-linked polyethylene) are good. Galvanized steel (common in homes built before 1960) corrodes over time and eventually needs full replacement. Polybutylene (poly-B) pipes (common in homes built between 1978 and 1995) are prone to failure and are increasingly difficult to insure. Replacing poly-B throughout a home typically costs $5,000 to $15,000.
Hot water tank — Check the age (usually printed on a label). Tanks typically last 8 to 12 years. Also confirm whether the tank is owned or rented. Rented tanks come with an ongoing monthly fee ($30-$60) and the rental contract transfers to you on closing.

Water Damage Signs

Water damage is one of the most costly problems a home can have, and it is not always obvious. Look carefully for:

Ceiling and wall stains — Brown or yellowish rings on ceilings or upper walls often indicate roof leaks or plumbing failures on upper floors.
Bubbling or peeling paint — This can indicate moisture trapped behind the wall surface.
Musty or mouldy smells — Trust your nose. If the basement or any room smells damp, there is likely an ongoing moisture problem.
Warped or buckling flooring — Hardwood, laminate, or vinyl that is warped usually means water exposure.
Check under sinks — Open the cabinets beneath kitchen and bathroom sinks and look for staining, dampness, or mould.
Window condensation — Moisture between window panes means the seal has failed and the windows need replacement. Excessive condensation on interior window surfaces can indicate high indoor humidity from poor ventilation or water intrusion.

Grading and Drainage

Outside, check that the ground slopes away from the foundation on all sides. Proper grading is essential for keeping water out of the basement.

The ground should slope away from the house for at least the first 1.5 to 2 metres (5 to 6 feet).
Downspouts should extend at least 1.2 metres (4 feet) from the foundation, or connect to underground drainage.
Look for areas where water might pool against the house — dips in the landscape, flower beds that slope toward the foundation, or missing downspout extensions.
Check for a sump pump in the basement. If there is one, it means the property has a history of water management needs. Ask when it was last serviced.

Poor grading is actually one of the most common causes of basement flooding in Canada, and the fix can be as simple as regrading the soil and extending downspouts — or as expensive as installing exterior waterproofing and weeping tile ($10,000-$25,000+).

Neighbourhood Factors

Do not just evaluate the house — evaluate the neighbourhood. A well-maintained home in a declining neighbourhood is a worse investment than a modest home in a strong community. Visit the area at different times of day to get a complete picture.

Consider the following:

Noise levels — Traffic volume, proximity to highways, airport flight paths, rail lines, bars or nightlife areas. Visit during rush hour and on a weekend evening.
Street parking — Is there adequate parking for you and your guests? Are there permit parking restrictions?
Transit access — Proximity to bus stops, subway stations, or commuter rail. Being within walking distance of rapid transit can add 5-10% to a property’s value.
Daily amenities — Grocery stores, pharmacies, healthcare clinics, banks, and restaurants within a reasonable distance.
Condition of neighbouring properties — Well-maintained neighbours suggest a stable, invested community. Multiple properties in disrepair may indicate declining values.
Future development — Check your municipality’s planning department website for development applications and official plan amendments. A quiet residential street could be slated for a new condo tower or commercial development that changes the character of the area.
Crime statistics — Many municipal police services publish neighbourhood crime data online. Check for trends rather than isolated incidents.
Walkability and cycling infrastructure — Walk Score (walkscore.com) provides ratings for walkability, transit access, and bikeability for any Canadian address.

What to Bring to a Showing

Come prepared with a few basic tools and a systematic approach:

Your phone — Take photos and videos of everything, including the mechanical systems, electrical panel, foundation walls, and any areas of concern.
A flashlight — Basement corners, crawl spaces, and areas behind furnaces are often poorly lit.
A notepad or checklist — After seeing several properties, they start to blur together. Take notes at each showing.
Comfortable shoes — You will want to walk the exterior, check the yard, and potentially access unfinished areas.
A level (or a level app) — Place it on countertops and floors to check for significant slopes, which can indicate settling or structural movement.

The more properties you view, the better your eye will become. For a comprehensive list of warning signs beyond what you can check at a showing, see our guide to red flags to watch for. Do not rush through showings, and never feel pressured to make a decision on the spot. A home is a long-term commitment — take the time to evaluate it thoroughly.

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